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New Hooks and rings 
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:22 pm Reply with quote
Bron Rayburn
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I had read a post that said after you replace your hooks and rings. Put them in the water to make sure they float right. What are you looking for? What does float right mean?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:17 pm Reply with quote
Art Weston
Joined: 17 Jan 2011
Posts: 238
Location: United States
Basically you need to check the balance of your lures. Best bet is to use them at a local pond, etc. to try them out to see if the "work" right / have the right action during the retrieve. For instance, if you put a big 1/0 or 2/0 hook on the rear of a yo-zuri minnow, it wont wiggle at all during the retrieve, and it will sink faster than it was designed for.

One tip is to use them before you change out the hooks to observe their action during a retrieve then after you change them out. You want them to work as similar to factory movement as possible. The maximum wiggle can also be observed if you take off the rear hook entirely (again, just for observation).

I prepared for my 1st trip during the winter so I could not test mine outside, so checking how they float can be an indication as to how well the will work in practice.

Specifically, "floating" them in the sink for instance, is just that ... for a woodchopper for instance, most will float about level in the water w/ facotry hooks and rings. Often times if you put too big of a ring and hook on the rear hook (for instance), they will float with the head of the lure pointing up. That unbalance can impact how well the lures props function during the retrieve.

Same goes for spooks and minnows ... but they are much more sensitive to heavy rear hooks not only impacting how they float, but how much they will wiggle in the water during retireve. A good general rule is to use a size 1 hook for the rear hook at most for those two types. You can then typically get away with a larger size 1/0 hook for the front hook (for spooks, you need remove the middle hook if there is one, and just have a front and a back).

Word of warning, not all manufacture hook sizes are the same ... Owner hooks for instance are usually 1-2 sizes bigger than VMCs (or Diiachi) for instance. My reccomendations are based on the VMC/Diiachi sizes.

Let me know if you have specific lure types that you want hook and ring reccomendations for and I can reply with what has worked for me.

-Art
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:33 pm Reply with quote
Art Weston
Joined: 17 Jan 2011
Posts: 238
Location: United States
I left a few items out ...

For spooks ... surface spooks are designed for just that ... running along the surface, so too heavy of hooks can make them sink (although there are some manufacturues that make sub-surface spooks).

Similarly for woodchoppers, even if you have a balanced chopper that floats horizontally in the water, if it sits too low in the water, the action of the props (how much water they throw, sound, etc.), can be materially impacted if they are too low.

Don't forget to bend your blades a bit when testing woodchoppers to get a great whoosh whoosh sound with a lot of spray ... others might have an opinon on this as well (as to the right sound and amount of spray). I typically found success bending the blades forward towards the nose of the chopper up to a 1/4 in. from factory specs.
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New Hooks and rings 
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